The Touchup
At least once a week a client comes in with a guitar that has a scratch, dent, small ding or giant gouge in the body of his guitar. Inevitably, he asks the question…
“Can you guys make this look new again?”
I shuffle my feet, trying to explain how difficult and time consuming it is. “How long would it take?”
I exhale loudly and ask, “Do you have a back up guitar?”
“How much will this cost?”
My answer, as always is, “How much is it worth to you?” These questions are not always easy to answer. Guitar finish and touch up are two of the hardest repairs that any tech can do. Even if that tech is a master, it can be time consuming, costly and may not always turn out perfectly. Most people are shocked to hear how much a finish touch up can cost. “It’s only a little chip in the finish!” they say. If you take your car into a body shop to get finish damage taken out, they will mask off the rest of the car and totally refinish the panel that has the damage done to it. We don’t often have the luxury of refinishing an entire guitar to remove dings and dents from a small portion, so touching up the damage is in order.
There are traditionally two different kinds of guitar finish, nitro-cellulose lacquer (AKA: nitro) and polyurethane (AKA: poly). Both have their pluses and minuses and there are several variations on the two finishes. Nitro is the softer of the two finishes but tends to let the wood “breathe” more, while poly is harder and more durable, but many players feel it “shells” the sound, dampening resonance and sustain. Martin and Gibson have used nitro since the 1930s and Fender guitars had lacquer finishes up until the late 1960’s. Most modern instruments, with the exception of the affor mentioned Martin and Gibson, (as well as some high-end boutique guitars), use poly or some variation of a urethane finish. Modern technologies have allowed companies like Taylor, Larrivee and Paul Reed Smith to use very thin coats of polyurethane to help alleviate some of the tonal problems associated with poly, while giving the hard protection that lacquer cannot. One strum on any of these guitars will tell you how far finishing has come.
Every repairman prefers touch up and refinishing with lacquer. It will chemically “redissolve” with old finishes, making touch up easier and sometimes flat out perfect. If there are scratches or dents, often they can be touched up by “drop filling” with lacquer. The drop fill must sit for 24 hours to let it dry before a second fill is done. The lacquer will have a tendency to “sink” into the existing blemish or surrounding finish, so several drop fills are generally required. This can be a long process. When the dent is successfully filled, we spray a thin layer of lacquer over the area, and let it dry. Then the area is wet sanded with fine grit sand paper and buffed out on our stationary arbor buffer. Often, we can make a blemish or crack virtually disappear. We don’t generally recommend touch up on vintage pieces, as it will affect the value of the instrument. Only in extreme or unusual circumstances, or if the “Vintage Value” of the instrument has already been affected, will we recommend any touch up on these instruments. Of course, we always do what the customer wants; it’s not our guitar after all!
POLYURETHANE: Poly presents another beast. Poly doesn’t let other finishes “melt” into it. We can tackle touch ups with poly in a few ways. How well a repair goes is often determined by color, texture and location. It’s easier to touch up an inconspicuous spot than a ding right on the top of a poly sunburst Strat! Generally, the area is stained with a color match aniline dye or simply drop filled with Crazy Glue (yes simple Crazy Glue). The area is then wet sanded and buffed out. This is the simplest form of touch up for poly. If a customer wants to pay more, we can drop fill, then spray a coat of color-matched poly or acrylic lacquer over the area. This presents the problem of creating a “ghost line” where new and old paints meet. We have been experimenting with different ways of blending these lines and have had very promising results using a process that we have to keep under wraps. The poly color touchups we’ve done lately have been coming out tremendously well and I think it’s just another way we can keep a hand up on the competition.Whether poly or lacquer, deciding whether or not to have your instrument restored is a personal choice. Only you can place a value on your guitar. One man’s trash is another man’s treasure, and after all, as one of my customers once said, “Chris, it’s not you up there in the spotlight”.
great tips! thanks
I have two Ernie Ball Music Man guitars in very rare colors one in pink of which only 200 were made and one in Green in which only 96 were made. The guitars are dead mint except they both have a ding in the clear coat. The Green believe it or not came from the factory with a beutiful 3D quilt top that had a small knot in the wood that looked kind of cool but I noticed the clear coat some how had a slight ding over the knot the size of a tip of a pick and just as thin. I have never played this guitar because I knew it was rare. The pink has a bigger ding in the clear about a third of an inch and in the right light angle is noticable. I used this ax in the studio and that ding was an accident. Neither one penetrates the paint or wood. I really would like to have these repaired but I thought they could be fixed with no knowledge that they were ever there.I do not want to affect the value of the guitars but there is a contradiction in what you say. If you can make it vanish how would someone know it was ever there. Or will it show a sign that there was a repair. I am in NY so I would find the best luthier here for the job if it will look like it never happened if there is going to be a trace of a repair I would rather leave it the way it is. Using your expertise the type of guitar and finish what is your opinion on the matter. Thank you for your advice.
I have an Epiphone EJ160E…(love it),that was in need of some repairs. The guitar was crunched in shipment by the volume & tone knobs. I repaired the damage by use of an internal screw jack and glue. After it was back in shape,I air brushed the area with “Mohawk” toners and Nitro clear. I wet sanded the areas and know of the ghost line that you had mentioned. With a little finess I made it virtually seamless.The problem I’m having is in the rubbing out process. After Rubbing out the repaired area is too smooth. I’ve noticed that Epiphone did some kind of texture to the top of that guitar to mimic the old nitro look. You can see what seems to be the grain of the wood…only on the top? The neck, sides and back are smooth. I was going to attempt to re-do the whole top with a brush …let it dry then shoot it with poly? Do you know what they did originally?
What year is this guitar and is it made in Korea or is it one of the American ones?
We hope that most of our repairs will be virtually undetectable to most people, but touch up work is fluid and there are too many factors that can get in the way of a “perfect” job. Color tint, where the touch up is, clear coat sheen/matte; there are too many variables to say you can make it invisible every time. When we talk about a repair affecting the value, it is usually when someone wants to modify or completely refinish an instrument. Having dings repaired professionally doesn’t usually decrease the value of an instrument, and it is always up to the owner of a guitar to tell prospective buyers whether or not an instrument has been repaired. Obviously, a Les Paul with a broken off headstock is not worth as much broken as it is repaired, but if you put a Floyd Rose on your ’65 Strat, your going to see a huge loss of value. I know that seems pretty obvious, but you would be surprised to know what people want to do to their collectible guitars!
I live in the UK and in 1972 my 1 year old son dropped my early 1960s Gretsch down stairs, snapping the neck at the 2nd fret. My local Scottish guitar shop owner knew a local violin maker whom he said I should try for a repair. This guy hand carved a nine inch wedge including the headstock, milled out the wood for the “Gretsch” logo and carved the remaining part of the neck to match the new wedge. How he managed the truss rod I don’t know. The actual fret board was undamaged somehow, so a refret was not needed. He did this job in three days, allowing me to use the guitar at a gig! He charged me all of £15 – about $25! I had to use car cellulose to refinish the guitar myself and he said for the next 10 years or so I’d have to rub down the join every so often. I have done this three times now and the join is now completely stable and invisible at last. I used several thin color coats and finished with several thin clear coats, using 1000 wet & dry between coats. I still use this guitar today (I am 69)and at present I am replacing the fingerboard binding which my son damaged recently – not the same son! Who’d have kids!
That is amazing Bob! Just a little imagination, the right tools and patience will do it.